The Cutters abroad - Morbihan Brittany

[Tim]




The geography of Morbihan creates notorious tidal reversals with choppy waters punctuated by whirlpools that challenged the largest vessels and most experienced crews. It is an immense amount of fun accompanied by a few sharp intakes of breath for all concerned.

The weeklong Semaine Du Golfe festival is one of the largest of it type in the World and draws many thousands of onlookers often perched on the steep banks and harbour entrances to watch and I suspect in the hope of seeing boats get caught out by the conditions. The Cutters level of seamanship did not disappoint the spectators, they and fellow mariners simply loved Langstone Lady and Sallyport especially those spectators that were gathered at the narrow entrance to Port Blanc who witnessed Colin and I attempt the first ever synchronised sharp port side slingshot, ferry glide manoeuvre to negotiate a particularly tight entrance to the harbour only to end up slowly slipping upstream on a back eddy side by side and having to convince their by now somewhat sceptical crews that it was worth getting up a full head of steam to have another go - “what fun” said Colin as we looked across at each other contemplating mutiny in the ranks….

Jo Beardsall, new to the event for 2025 summed up the event well when she commented “imagine that you are in a washing machine….with jet skis, Tall Ships, passenger ferries and a Viking Longboat coming at you from five different directions all trying to squeeze through a narrow port entrances whilst going sideways and trying to avoid hazard markers…..”



Langstone Cutters were in flotilla B which consisted of some 70 vessels from around Europe all of which were at least in part reliant upon oars to get around.

Day one saw the opening parade and the crews set off from Port Anna to the Atlantic entrance where the flotillas gathered to welcome the Tall Ships as they sailed in from the Atlantic for the week’s events, a hard row back followed on the incoming tide to the port.

The high winds on Tuesday saw the Cutters ashore but exploring nearby Vannes where the festival was based.

Wednesday and Thursday saw an early start and lengthy rows to several harbours and beaches followed by some class racing in testing conditions of nine knots of tide through tight inlets before reaching another welcoming port where the rowers were greeted by traditional dances and grand get togethers with other crews.

Friday was hot with temperatures in the high twenties and saw the crews heading out to the Atlantic on the falling tide and ashore at a welcoming beach to await the returning tide to speed them back into the Gulf and up a tributary to a party in the woods hosted by the local community.



Saturday came all to soon and fine weather saw the flotilla return back down the river and out again across the rough waters of the entrance and to Port Navalo to await the return of the Tall Ships to lead all 1000 vessels the length of the Gulf, a truly magnificent spectacle ashore and afloat with all vessels joined, some literally, in a procession to end the festival and to yet another party back at Port Anna. Jackie Harper another first timer said “that was the best Saturday afternoon of my life….”



Overall what a privilege for us all, six days of on water with some 82 miles rowed, followed by on shore festivities with fellow mariners sharing the experience of all the weather and tidal conditions in the Gulf of Morbihan whilst participating in one of the most amazing maritime experiences anywhere in the World with a bunch of chums from a small rowing club in Langstone.

So the big question for many is when is it happening again and is it for me?

Well the next Semaine Du Golfe is in 2027.

As to whether it is for you or not it’s simple just imagine doing the Great River Race, Round Hayling, the Tudor Ten, Cockleshell Challenge and a windy excursion to Emsworth for breakfast, each followed by a party, on five consecutive days with a days travel either side plus a fair dollop of weather,  and a monstrous amount of phaff, all the tides you could wish for and the biggest, craziest fairground/waterpark ride of your life, times a lot in the most beautiful surroundings amongst literally thousands of like minded people and sign up its is simply a must do event - oh and most importantly perhaps, find a way to persuade Rachel, Rich, Colin, Dave, Chris, Geoff, Sue Steve and all the others that worked so very hard to organise, coordinate, tow, cox etc etc to do it all again - should be an easy one.

On the subject of coxing the event is undoubtedly the most challenging of experiences with each row requiring 100% concentration simply to get from A to B without colliding with other vessels plus managing the turbulent water, waves, whirlpools, and intermittent broadcasts from the organisers “Flotilla B, Flotilla B derpartee” then “nooooo not that white tower the other one”.

Still not sure then offer a pint or cup of tea or six to one of the 2025 crew and set aside at least an afternoon to hear for yourself what it was like for them😎

Anon
Sent from my iPad

[Anne3]

Thanks very much for this. It's an amazing area, both ashore and afloat, with the food and music of the former I hope compensating for any misery of the latter. Congratulations for surviving the challenges of the water and well done all.

[michael]

Anon,
Thank you for this vivid account. Those of us who could not make the trip really do appreciate you.
Michael

[Liz Walmsley]

What a wonderful overview, thank you Tim.